Edna Lewis Recipes: 14 Country Dishes From the Virginia Farm Girl Who Became the Queen of Southern Cooking

Edna Lewis recipes carry the taste of a small Virginia farming town called Freetown, where she was born in 1916 as the granddaughter of a formerly enslaved man who helped found the community. She left home at 16, worked as a seamstress in New York, cooked at the famous Café Nicholson for writers and movie stars, and then wrote The Taste of Country Cooking, published in 1976. That book did something new: it told the story of a Black farming family through the food they grew, cooked and shared with the seasons. Her dishes still feel like a warm kitchen on a cold day. If you love our Southern holiday baking gifts, you will feel right at home here. Here are 14 Edna Lewis recipes for a cozy holiday table, each with a short story, what you will need and easy steps..

Edna Lewis Recipes Start Here: Southern Pan-Fried Chicken

If you only try one of the Edna Lewis recipes, make it her pan-fried chicken. She believed real Southern fried chicken was cooked in a heavy skillet, not a deep fryer, and her famous method soaked the pieces before frying them slowly in lard and butter, with a slice of country ham in the pan for extra flavor. The result is a thin, shattering crust and juicy meat. You can read more about her landmark book on The Taste of Country Cooking, and compare her skillet style with these fried chicken recipes from around the world..

You will need: 1 whole chicken cut into 8 pieces, 1 quart water with 1/4 cup salt for brining, 2 cups buttermilk, 1 1/2 cups flour, 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp black pepper, 1 cup lard or shortening, 1/2 cup butter, 1 thin slice country ham (optional).

How to make it: 1. Soak the chicken in the salted water in the fridge overnight, then drain and cover with buttermilk for a few hours. 2. Mix the flour, salt and pepper. 3. Melt the lard, butter and ham slice in a heavy cast iron skillet over medium heat. 4. Drain the chicken, dredge it well and lay it skin side down in the hot fat without crowding. 5. Fry 10 to 12 minutes per side until deep golden and cooked through, then drain on a rack.

Crusty Buttermilk Biscuits Made the Freetown Way

Edna Lewis cared so much about biscuits that she mixed her own baking powder from cream of tartar and baking soda, because she disliked the metallic taste of store-bought cans. Her biscuits were small, crusty on the outside and tender inside, baked in a very hot oven and served at almost every meal on the farm. Cut them out with a floured glass, place them close together and bake them right before dinner. For more morning ideas, try these Southern breakfast classics built around biscuits, gravy and grits.

You will need: 2 cups flour, 2 tsp homemade baking powder (2 parts cream of tartar to 1 part baking soda), 1 tsp salt, 1/2 cup cold lard or butter, 3/4 cup cold buttermilk.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 475°F. 2. Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt, then rub in the cold fat until it looks like coarse crumbs. 3. Stir in the buttermilk just until the dough comes together. 4. Pat it 1/2 inch thick, fold once, and cut small rounds. 5. Prick the tops with a fork and bake 10 to 12 minutes until golden.

Edna Lewis Recipes for Dessert: Sweet Potato Pie

Sweet potatoes grew in the Freetown gardens and were stored through the winter, so sweet potato pie became a natural holiday dessert, and it is still one of the most loved Edna Lewis recipes. She liked a filling that let the real potato flavor shine, lightly spiced with nutmeg and enriched with butter and eggs rather than buried under sugar. Roasting the potatoes instead of boiling them gives a deeper, caramel taste. If you want a second version to compare, our grandma’s sweet potato pie is another family favorite.

You will need: 2 cups mashed roasted sweet potatoes, 3/4 cup sugar, 3 eggs, 1/2 cup melted butter, 1 cup whole milk, 1/2 tsp nutmeg, 1/2 tsp cinnamon, pinch of salt, 1 tsp vanilla, 1 unbaked 9-inch pie crust.

How to make it: 1. Roast the sweet potatoes at 400°F until very soft, then peel and mash. 2. Beat in the sugar, eggs, butter, milk, spices, salt and vanilla until smooth. 3. Pour into the pie crust. 4. Bake at 375°F for 45 to 50 minutes until the center is just set. 5. Cool before slicing.

Country Ham With Gravy for a Holiday Breakfast

On the Virginia farm, hogs were butchered in the cold months and hams were salted and cured to last the year, so country ham was part of many special breakfasts and holiday meals. Among Edna Lewis recipes for breakfast, she wrote lovingly about thin slices fried in a skillet, served with biscuits and a simple pan gravy. Because country ham is very salty, soaking or simmering it first keeps the flavor balanced. For a bigger centerpiece, browse these holiday ham recipes that taste like Christmas at grandma’s.

You will need: 6 thin slices country ham, 1 cup water, 1/2 cup strong brewed coffee, 1 tsp brown sugar, 1 tbsp butter, eggs and biscuits to serve.

How to make it: 1. Soak the ham slices in warm water for 20 minutes, then pat dry. 2. Fry them in a hot skillet with the butter for 2 to 3 minutes per side until the edges brown. 3. Move the ham to a warm plate. 4. Pour the coffee, water and brown sugar into the skillet and scrape up the brown bits. 5. Simmer 2 minutes and spoon the thin gravy over ham, eggs and split biscuits.

Chicken and Dumplings for Cold Winter Nights

Chicken and dumplings is the kind of slow, gentle dish that fills a farmhouse with good smells all afternoon. In country kitchens like the one Edna Lewis grew up in, an older hen was simmered for hours to make a rich broth, then soft dumplings were dropped on top and steamed under a lid. Keep the pot at a quiet simmer so the dumplings stay light and fluffy. Fans of this dish should also read about Dolly Parton’s chicken and dumplings, another Southern comfort classic.

You will need: 1 whole chicken (about 4 lb), 1 onion, 2 celery stalks, 2 carrots, 1 bay leaf, salt and pepper, 2 cups flour, 1 tbsp baking powder, 1 tsp salt, 3 tbsp butter, 3/4 cup milk, chopped parsley.

How to make it: 1. Simmer the chicken with the vegetables, bay leaf and water to cover for about 1 1/2 hours. 2. Lift out the chicken, shred the meat and return it to the strained broth. 3. Mix the flour, baking powder and salt, cut in the butter and stir in the milk. 4. Drop spoonfuls of dough onto the simmering broth. 5. Cover and cook 15 minutes without lifting the lid, then sprinkle with parsley.

Edna Lewis Recipes From the Garden: Corn Pudding

Corn pudding shows why Edna Lewis recipes are loved for their simplicity: fresh or frozen corn, milk, eggs, a little butter and sugar, baked until it is just set and golden on top. In Freetown, summer corn was dried or put up so this soft, custardy side could appear on the table well into the winter. It goes with ham, turkey or fried chicken and disappears fast at potlucks. You will find more holiday sides in our Southern Thanksgiving dishes that grandma never left off the table.

You will need: 3 cups corn kernels, 3 eggs, 2 cups whole milk, 2 tbsp sugar, 1 tsp salt, 3 tbsp melted butter, 2 tbsp flour, pinch of nutmeg.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 350°F and butter a 2-quart baking dish. 2. Whisk the eggs, milk, sugar, salt, flour, nutmeg and melted butter. 3. Stir in the corn and pour into the dish. 4. Set the dish in a larger pan of hot water. 5. Bake 45 to 50 minutes until the center barely jiggles and the top is golden.

Garden Greens Cooked With Pot Likker

Edna Lewis said that greens were at the heart of Southern food, and she treated them with great care. Wild and garden greens were washed in several waters, simmered with a little smoked pork and served with their cooking liquid, called pot likker, which was sopped up with bread. Like many Edna Lewis recipes, the method is simple: cook them tender but still bright, never boiled to mush. For more ideas with kale, collards and spinach, see these leafy greens recipes that make vegetables something to crave.

You will need: 2 large bunches collard or mustard greens, 1 smoked ham hock or 4 oz smoked pork, 1 onion, 2 cloves garlic, 4 cups water, salt, pepper, a splash of cider vinegar.

How to make it: 1. Simmer the smoked pork and onion in the water for 45 minutes. 2. Wash the greens well, strip the stems and cut the leaves into ribbons. 3. Add the greens and garlic to the pot. 4. Cook 30 to 40 minutes until tender. 5. Season with salt, pepper and vinegar and serve with the pot likker.

Edna Lewis Recipes Grandmas Kept: Baked Tomato Pudding

Tomato pudding is one of the old-fashioned dishes that shows up in many Edna Lewis recipes collections: ripe or canned tomatoes baked with buttered bread cubes and a little sugar until the edges turn sticky and caramelized. Summer tomatoes were canned in Freetown, so the dish could warm up a winter supper too. Serve it beside roast meat or spoon it over a split biscuit. If you love that tangy tomato flavor, you will enjoy these cozy tomato soup recipes as well.

You will need: 1 can (28 oz) whole tomatoes or 2 lb ripe tomatoes, 4 cups cubed day-old bread, 6 tbsp melted butter, 2 tbsp sugar, 1/2 tsp salt, black pepper, 1 small grated onion.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 375°F. 2. Toss the bread cubes with the butter and toast them lightly on a tray. 3. Crush the tomatoes with their juice and mix with the sugar, salt, pepper and onion. 4. Fold in most of the bread and pour into a buttered baking dish, then top with the rest. 5. Bake 35 to 40 minutes until bubbling and browned at the edges.

Edna Lewis Macaroni and Cheese for the Holiday Table

Baked macaroni and cheese is a holiday must in many Southern homes, and Edna Lewis made hers the simple, old-fashioned way: elbow pasta layered with sharp cheese and a custard of milk and eggs, baked until the top turns crusty and brown. There is no flour sauce, so the inside stays creamy and rich while the edges get chewy. Make it a day ahead and bake it right before dinner. For more versions, look through these baked mac and cheese recipes made for family gatherings.

You will need: 8 oz elbow macaroni, 3 cups grated sharp cheddar, 2 eggs, 2 cups whole milk, 3 tbsp butter, 1 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp black pepper, pinch of cayenne.

How to make it: 1. Cook the macaroni until just tender and drain. 2. Butter a baking dish and layer the pasta with the cheese, ending with cheese on top. 3. Whisk the eggs, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne and pour it over. 4. Dot with butter. 5. Bake at 350°F for 35 to 40 minutes until set and golden brown.

Scalloped Oysters for a Winter Holiday Supper

In old Virginia kitchens, oysters were a cold-weather treat because they traveled well in winter, and scalloped oysters were often part of a holiday spread. The dish is simple: layers of shucked oysters and buttery cracker crumbs, moistened with a little cream and oyster liquor, then baked until golden. It is rich, briny and very comforting next to ham and greens. For bigger seafood feasts, try a seafood boil at home when the weather warms up.

You will need: 1 pint shucked oysters with their liquor, 2 cups coarse cracker crumbs, 1/2 cup melted butter, 1/2 cup heavy cream, salt, pepper, pinch of nutmeg, chopped parsley, lemon wedges.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 400°F and butter a shallow baking dish. 2. Toss the crumbs with the melted butter. 3. Layer a third of the crumbs, half the oysters, salt, pepper and nutmeg, then repeat. 4. Mix the cream with 1/4 cup oyster liquor, pour it over and finish with the last crumbs. 5. Bake 25 to 30 minutes until golden and bubbling, then add parsley and lemon.

Edna Lewis Recipes for Fruit: Blackberry Crisp

Wild blackberries grew along fences and fields all over rural Virginia, and simple fruit desserts were some of the easiest pleasures of the farm year that Edna Lewis wrote about. A crisp is the simplest of them: berries or sliced fruit with a little sugar, covered with a buttery crumb topping and baked until it bubbles up at the edges. Frozen berries work beautifully in winter. For more ideas, see these fruit crumble, cobbler and crisp recipes that taste like grandma’s.

You will need: 5 cups blackberries or mixed berries and sliced pears, 1/2 cup sugar, 2 tbsp flour, 1 tbsp lemon juice, 1 cup flour, 3/4 cup brown sugar, 1/2 tsp cinnamon, pinch of salt, 1/2 cup cold butter.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 375°F. 2. Toss the fruit with the sugar, 2 tbsp flour and lemon juice and spread in a buttered dish. 3. Rub the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, salt and butter together into crumbs. 4. Scatter the topping over the fruit. 5. Bake 40 to 45 minutes until golden and bubbling, then serve warm.

Old-Fashioned Berry Cobbler With a Biscuit Top

Cobbler is the dessert of Southern summer kitchens, but it is just as good made with frozen berries in December. Edna Lewis liked desserts that were not too sweet, letting the fruit be the star. This version uses a soft biscuit dough dropped over hot fruit, so the bottom soaks up the juices while the top bakes golden and craggy. Serve it warm with a spoon of cream. If you like easy fruit desserts, these dump cake recipes are another simple way to bake with berries.

You will need: 5 cups blueberries or blackberries, 2/3 cup sugar, 1 tbsp cornstarch, 1 tbsp lemon juice, 1 1/2 cups flour, 2 tsp baking powder, 2 tbsp sugar, 1/2 tsp salt, 6 tbsp cold butter, 3/4 cup buttermilk.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 400°F. 2. Toss the berries with the sugar, cornstarch and lemon juice and heat in a baking dish for 10 minutes. 3. Mix the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt, cut in the butter and stir in the buttermilk. 4. Drop spoonfuls of dough over the hot fruit. 5. Bake 25 to 30 minutes until the top is golden and the fruit bubbles.

Old Virginia Pound Cake for Holiday Company

A pound cake was always ready for visitors in country homes, and it keeps well for days, which made it perfect for the busy holiday season. The old recipe used a pound each of butter, sugar, eggs and flour, and the secret is patience: beat the butter and sugar a long time until pale and fluffy so the cake rises with a fine, tender crumb. A little nutmeg or vanilla is all it needs, just as in the old Edna Lewis recipes. For more classic cakes, try these vintage pound cake recipes straight from grandma’s box.

You will need: 1 cup (2 sticks) butter at room temperature, 1 2/3 cups sugar, 5 eggs, 2 cups cake flour, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 tsp vanilla, 1/4 tsp nutmeg.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 325°F and butter and flour a loaf or tube pan. 2. Beat the butter and sugar for 6 to 8 minutes until very light. 3. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each. 4. Fold in the flour, salt, vanilla and nutmeg. 5. Bake 60 to 75 minutes until a skewer comes out clean, then cool in the pan for 15 minutes.

Edna Lewis Recipes for Christmas: Fresh Coconut Layer Cake

A tall white coconut cake was a Christmas showpiece in many Southern homes of Edna Lewis’s generation, and cracking a fresh coconut was part of the holiday fun. The milk from the coconut can moisten the layers, and the freshly grated meat is pressed all over a fluffy white icing. It takes time, but it turns the end of a holiday meal into a celebration. For more coconut ideas, see our coconut cake recipes, and thank Edna Lewis recipes for keeping these flavors alive.

You will need: 3 cups cake flour, 1 tbsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 cup butter, 2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, 1 cup coconut milk, 1 tsp vanilla, 2 cups freshly grated or sweetened coconut, plus a 7-minute icing (3 egg whites, 1 1/2 cups sugar, 1/3 cup water, 1/4 tsp cream of tartar).

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 350°F and line three 9-inch cake pans. 2. Cream the butter and sugar, beat in the eggs, then add the dry ingredients alternately with the coconut milk and vanilla. 3. Divide the batter and bake 25 to 28 minutes, then cool. 4. Beat the icing ingredients over simmering water for 7 minutes until glossy and stiff. 5. Stack and frost the layers and press the coconut all over the cake.