Mark Twain Food List: 15 American Dishes He Missed So Much in Europe He Wrote Them All Down

The Mark Twain food list is one of the funniest and most homesick things a famous American writer ever put on paper. In 1878 and 1879 Twain wandered through Germany, Switzerland and Italy, and by the end he was sick of hotel dinners that he said all tasted the same. In his 1880 travel book A Tramp Abroad he grumbled about roast chicken “as tasteless as paper” and then wrote out a long bill of fare he wanted hot and waiting when his steamer reached home. Hot biscuits, buckwheat cakes, fried chicken, roast turkey and peach cobbler were all on it. Here are 15 dishes from his real list, each with his own words, the story behind it, what you will need and easy steps..

Hot Buckwheat Cakes With Clear Maple Syrup, Straight From the Mark Twain Food List

Twain asked for “Hot buckwheat cakes” and, a line later, “American toast. Clear maple syrup.” Buckwheat cakes were everyday breakfast in 1800s America, cooked on a hot griddle in winter when the nutty flour was cheap and filling. After months of thin European rolls and coffee, he wanted a tall stack dripping with syrup. You can read about the book where the Mark Twain food list appears on its Wikipedia page, then make the cakes he dreamed about..

You will need: 1 cup buckwheat flour, 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1 1/2 cups milk, 1 egg, 3 tablespoons melted butter, butter for the griddle and pure maple syrup to serve.

How to make it: 1. Whisk the buckwheat flour, flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. 2. Beat the milk, egg and melted butter together, then stir into the dry mix until just combined. 3. Rest the batter for 10 minutes so the buckwheat softens. 4. Cook 1/4 cup scoops on a buttered griddle over medium heat until bubbles pop, then flip. 5. Stack them high with a pat of butter and pour warm maple syrup over the top.

Hot Biscuits, Southern Style

“Hot biscuits, Southern style” sits near the top of the list, and it makes sense. Twain grew up in Hannibal, Missouri, and spent summers on his uncle’s farm, where biscuits came to the table hot at nearly every meal. European bread was good, but it was not the soft, flaky, butter-split kind of bread he missed. Tall Southern biscuits need cold butter, a light hand and a very hot oven. Cut them straight down without twisting the cutter so they rise high and even, just like the ones on the Mark Twain food list.

You will need: 2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1/2 cup very cold butter and 3/4 cup cold buttermilk.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 450 F and line a baking sheet with parchment. 2. Whisk the dry ingredients, then grate in the cold butter and toss it with your fingertips. 3. Stir in the buttermilk just until a shaggy dough forms. 4. Pat the dough 1 inch thick, fold it over twice, and cut rounds without twisting. 5. Bake 12 to 14 minutes until tall and golden, then brush with melted butter.

Fried Chicken, Southern Style, on the Mark Twain Food List

European cooks served Twain roast chicken that he said was as tasteless as paper, so it is no surprise that “Fried chicken, Southern style” made his list. In the 1800s Southern fried chicken was soaked in buttermilk or salted, rolled in seasoned flour and fried in lard in a heavy iron skillet until the crust shattered. It was Sunday dinner and church picnic food all across the South. This version keeps the buttermilk soak and the craggy crust, and it is just as good cold the next day.

You will need: 8 bone-in chicken pieces, 2 cups buttermilk, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 cups flour, 1 teaspoon each paprika, garlic powder and black pepper, and vegetable oil or shortening for frying.

How to make it: 1. Soak the chicken in buttermilk with 1 teaspoon salt for at least 4 hours or overnight in the fridge. 2. Mix the flour with the remaining salt, paprika, garlic powder and pepper. 3. Lift each piece from the buttermilk and press it firmly into the seasoned flour. 4. Fry in 1 inch of oil at 325 F, covered for the first 10 minutes, turning once, for about 25 minutes total. 5. Drain on a rack and check that the thickest pieces reach 165 F inside.

Baked Apples, With Cream

The very first line of the bill of fare reads “Radishes. Baked apples, with cream.” Baked apples were a simple farmhouse dessert in America, made from the barrels of apples every family stored for winter. The cores were scooped out, filled with sugar, butter and spice, and the apples went into the oven while supper cooked. Twain wanted them with real cream, which he complained was hard to find in European hotels. Pour the cream cold over the warm apples, just the way the Mark Twain food list asked.

You will need: 6 firm baking apples, 1/3 cup brown sugar, 1/4 cup chopped walnuts or raisins, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 3 tablespoons butter, 1/2 cup apple cider or water and heavy cream to serve.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 375 F and core the apples, leaving the bottoms whole. 2. Mix the brown sugar, nuts or raisins and cinnamon, and pack it into each apple. 3. Top each apple with a little butter and set them in a baking dish. 4. Pour the cider around the apples and bake 40 to 50 minutes, basting twice, until tender. 5. Serve warm with the pan juices and a generous pour of cold cream.

Roast Turkey, Thanksgiving Style, With Cranberry Sauce

Twain asked for “Roast turkey, Thanksgiving style” and then, right below it, “Cranberry sauce. Celery.” By 1880 Thanksgiving was a national holiday, and a roast bird with all the trimmings already meant home to Americans living abroad. If you want more classic sides for the big day, our old-fashioned Thanksgiving recipes gallery has plenty. This roast keeps things simple: a dry salt rub the day before, butter under the skin and a steady oven, so the meat stays juicy and the skin turns deep gold.

You will need: 1 turkey (12 to 14 pounds), 2 tablespoons kosher salt, 1 tablespoon chopped sage and thyme, 1/2 cup soft butter, 1 onion, 1 lemon, 2 celery ribs and homemade cranberry sauce to serve.

How to make it: 1. The day before, pat the turkey dry, rub it with salt and herbs and chill it uncovered. 2. Heat the oven to 325 F and rub soft butter under and over the skin. 3. Fill the cavity with the onion, lemon and celery, and set the bird on a rack in a roasting pan. 4. Roast about 13 minutes per pound until the thigh reads 165 F. 5. Rest 30 minutes before carving and serve with cranberry sauce.

Apple Dumplings, With Real Cream

Notice the word “real” in “Apple dumplings, with real cream.” Twain used it more than once on his list, a gentle jab at the thin cream he got in Europe. Apple dumplings were a farm favorite, especially in Pennsylvania and the South: a whole apple wrapped in pastry and baked in a sweet buttery syrup until the crust is crisp on top and soft underneath. They take a little time, but they are one of the most comforting desserts on the whole Mark Twain food list.

You will need: 1 double pie crust, 6 small apples peeled and cored, 1/2 cup sugar mixed with 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 3 tablespoons butter, plus 1 cup water, 1 cup brown sugar and 4 tablespoons butter for the syrup, and heavy cream to serve.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 375 F and roll the pastry into six squares. 2. Set an apple on each square, fill the center with cinnamon sugar and a little butter. 3. Fold the corners up over the apple and pinch the seams closed. 4. Simmer the water, brown sugar and butter for 3 minutes and pour it around the dumplings in a baking dish. 5. Bake 40 to 45 minutes, basting halfway, and serve warm with real cream.

Pumpkin Pie, the Dessert That Ends the Mark Twain Food List

Near the very end of the list Twain wrote “Pumpkin pie. Squash pie. All sorts of American pastry.” Pumpkin pie had been a New England harvest dessert since colonial days, and by Twain’s time it was the pie of Thanksgiving. Europe had beautiful pastries, but nothing like a smooth, spiced custard in a flaky crust. Using real pumpkin or good canned pumpkin and a little extra spice gives you the deep flavor he was so homesick for.

You will need: 1 unbaked 9-inch pie crust, 1 can (15 ounces) pumpkin puree, 3/4 cup brown sugar, 2 eggs, 1 cup evaporated milk or cream, 1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon each ginger and nutmeg, a pinch of cloves and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 425 F and fit the crust into a pie plate. 2. Whisk the pumpkin, sugar, eggs, milk, spices and salt until smooth. 3. Pour the filling into the crust and bake 15 minutes. 4. Lower the heat to 350 F and bake 35 to 40 minutes more, until the center barely jiggles. 5. Cool completely and serve with softly whipped cream.

Peach Cobbler, Southern Style

“Peach cobbler, Southern style” is listed right after the apple puffs, and it is easy to picture Twain thinking of Missouri summers. Cobblers were a quick way for pioneer and Southern cooks to bake fruit under a biscuit topping when there was no time for a proper pie. The topping looks like a cobbled street, which may be how the dish got its name. Ripe peaches are best, but frozen ones work well in winter, so you can make this Mark Twain food list favorite any time of year.

You will need: 6 cups sliced peaches, 1/2 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon cornstarch, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, plus 1 1/2 cups flour, 1/4 cup sugar, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 6 tablespoons cold butter and 2/3 cup milk for the topping.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 400 F and butter a 9×13-inch baking dish. 2. Toss the peaches with sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon and lemon juice and spread them in the dish. 3. Mix the topping dry ingredients, cut in the butter, then stir in the milk. 4. Drop spoonfuls of dough over the peaches, leaving gaps for the juice to bubble through. 5. Bake 35 to 40 minutes until golden and serve warm with cream or ice cream.

Boston Bacon and Beans on the Mark Twain Food List

Twain’s exact words were “Boston bacon and beans,” the slow-baked dish that helped give Boston its Beantown nickname. New England cooks put small white beans, salt pork, molasses and mustard in a crock on Saturday and let them bake all day in a slow oven, then served them with brown bread. The long cooking turns the beans soft, sweet and deep brown. The Mark Twain food list is full of Southern dishes, but this one shows he loved good Yankee home cooking too.

You will need: 1 pound dried navy beans soaked overnight, 6 ounces thick bacon or salt pork cut in pieces, 1 onion, 1/3 cup molasses, 3 tablespoons brown sugar, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, 1 teaspoon salt and black pepper.

How to make it: 1. Simmer the soaked beans in fresh water for about 45 minutes until just tender, then drain, saving the liquid. 2. Heat the oven to 300 F and put the whole onion in a bean pot or Dutch oven. 3. Stir the molasses, sugar, mustard, salt and pepper into 2 cups of the bean liquid. 4. Layer the beans and bacon in the pot and pour the molasses mixture over them. 5. Cover and bake 5 to 6 hours, adding liquid as needed, and uncover for the last hour.

Succotash, an Old American Side Dish

“Lettuce. Succotash. String beans.” Succotash is one of the oldest dishes in America. The name comes from a Narragansett word, and Native cooks were making stews of corn and beans long before European settlers arrived. By Twain’s day it was a common side on farm tables, especially in summer when the corn was sweet. Modern versions often add tomatoes, okra or peppers, which makes the dish colorful and fresh. Serve it beside the fried chicken or the turkey for a real old-time supper from the Mark Twain food list.

You will need: 2 tablespoons butter, 1 small onion chopped, 1 red bell pepper diced, 2 cups corn kernels, 2 cups lima or butter beans, 1 cup sliced okra (optional), 1 cup cherry tomatoes halved, salt, pepper and fresh parsley.

How to make it: 1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. 2. Cook the onion and pepper for 5 minutes until soft. 3. Add the okra and cook 3 minutes, then add the corn and beans. 4. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, stirring, until everything is hot and tender. 5. Fold in the tomatoes, season well and finish with parsley.

Saratoga Potatoes, the Thin Fried Chips of the 1800s

When Twain asked for “Saratoga potatoes,” he meant paper-thin fried potato slices, the treat that made the resort town of Saratoga Springs, New York, famous in the 1850s. A popular legend says a cook there sliced them extra thin to please a fussy diner, though the story has been told in many versions. Fancy hotels served them hot, in a basket or beside game birds. Homemade chips are easy with a sharp mandoline, and they taste far better than anything from a bag, which is why they belong on any Mark Twain food list dinner.

You will need: 3 large russet potatoes, a mandoline slicer, a large bowl of ice water, vegetable oil for frying, fine salt and a little chopped rosemary or black pepper if you like.

How to make it: 1. Slice the potatoes paper thin on a mandoline. 2. Soak the slices in ice water for 30 minutes, then dry them very well on towels. 3. Heat 2 inches of oil to 350 F in a deep heavy pot. 4. Fry the slices in small batches, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes until golden. 5. Drain on paper towels and salt them right away.

Porter-House Steak, Seared in a Hot Skillet

Twain spelled it “Porter-house steak,” the way Americans did in his day. One popular story says the cut was named after old public houses that sold porter beer and hearty meals in New York in the early 1800s. A porterhouse has two steaks in one, the tender filet on one side of the bone and the strip on the other. Searing it in a heavy pan and finishing it with butter and herbs gives you a steakhouse dinner at home, straight from the Mark Twain food list.

You will need: 1 porterhouse steak about 1 1/2 inches thick, 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, cracked black pepper, 1 tablespoon oil, 3 tablespoons butter, 2 garlic cloves and a few thyme sprigs.

How to make it: 1. Salt the steak and let it sit at room temperature for 40 minutes, then pat it dry and add pepper. 2. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over high heat until it shimmers. 3. Sear the steak 4 to 5 minutes per side, holding it on its fat edge for a minute. 4. Add the butter, garlic and thyme and spoon the foaming butter over the steak. 5. Cook to 130 F for medium rare, then rest 10 minutes before slicing off the bone.

Fried Oysters, the First Seafood on the Mark Twain Food List

The second line of the list says “Fried oysters; stewed oysters,” and oysters come up again and again after that, from Blue Points to oyster soup. In the 1800s oysters were cheap, everyday American food, sold from carts and served in busy oyster cellars in every big city. Frying them in a cornmeal crust was a Southern favorite. Fresh shucked oysters from the fish counter work perfectly, and they cook in about two minutes, so have everything ready before you start.

You will need: 1 pint shucked oysters drained, 1 cup buttermilk, 1 cup fine cornmeal, 1/2 cup flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon each black pepper and paprika, oil for frying, lemon wedges and tartar sauce.

How to make it: 1. Soak the oysters in buttermilk for 10 minutes. 2. Mix the cornmeal, flour, salt, pepper and paprika in a shallow dish. 3. Heat 1 inch of oil to 375 F in a heavy skillet. 4. Roll each oyster in the cornmeal mix and fry in small batches for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes until golden. 5. Drain on paper towels and serve hot with lemon and tartar sauce.

Baked Sweet Potatoes With Butter and Cinnamon

“Butter beans. Sweet potatoes.” Sweet potatoes grew all over the South, and in Twain’s day they were roasted in the ashes of the kitchen fire until the skins split and the insides turned soft and sugary. They were rarely on the menus of the European hotels he visited, so they were a true taste of home. Baking them slowly in the oven gives the same rich, caramel flavor. Split them open, add a spoon of butter and a sprinkle of cinnamon, and this Mark Twain food list side is almost a dessert.

You will need: 4 medium sweet potatoes, 1 teaspoon oil, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 2 teaspoons honey or brown sugar and flaky salt.

How to make it: 1. Heat the oven to 400 F and line a baking sheet with parchment. 2. Scrub the sweet potatoes, prick them a few times and rub them with oil. 3. Bake 50 to 60 minutes until very soft and the juices start to caramelize. 4. Split each potato open and fluff the inside with a fork. 5. Add butter, cinnamon, a drizzle of honey and a pinch of flaky salt.

Green Corn on the Ear, the Mark Twain Food List Favorite He Named Twice

Twain listed corn twice: “Green corn, cut from the ear and served with butter and pepper” and “Green corn, on the ear.” Green corn simply meant young, fresh sweet corn picked before it dried, the kind American families waited for all summer. Corn on the cob was almost unknown at European tables then, which made Twain miss it even more. The secret is to cook it quickly and not to salt the water, then roll the hot ears in butter and finish with pepper, just as the Mark Twain food list says.

You will need: 6 ears fresh sweet corn husked, 4 tablespoons soft butter, freshly cracked black pepper and flaky salt.

How to make it: 1. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, without salt. 2. Add the corn and cook 4 to 5 minutes, just until the kernels are bright and tender. 3. Lift the ears out with tongs and let them drain for a moment. 4. Roll each hot ear in soft butter. 5. Finish with plenty of black pepper and a pinch of flaky salt, and serve right away.