Southern Cafeteria Food: 13 Plates Grandma Lined Up For After Church, From Square Fish to Chess Pie

Southern cafeteria food was a Sunday ritual: church clothes, a long line, a plastic tray and a dozen steel pans glowing under the heat lamps. A Business Insider video on the rise and fall of Southern cafeterias has passed 2.8 million views, and the comments read like a family reunion. People remember square fish with tartar sauce, chicken fried steak, butter beans, squash casserole and a slice of chess pie at the end of the line. Many of the big chains, like the Texas cafeteria chain Luby’s, have shrunk or closed, but the recipes are still simple to make at home. Here are the classics, from the meat counter to the dessert case. Grab a tray and let’s go down the line..

Baked Fish Squares: Southern Cafeteria Food at Its Best

Close your eyes and you can almost hear the clink of trays sliding down the line after Sunday church. The square fish was what grandparents ordered most: mild white fish baked under buttery crumbs and cut into neat squares, with tartar sauce, a square of mac and cheese and a little pile of fried okra on the side. It is southern cafeteria food at its most comforting, and it costs very little to make at home. If you want more easy fish suppers, browse our easy white fish dinners. Grab a tray and let’s go down the line..

You will need: 2 lb cod or pollock fillets, 1 cup panko or cracker crumbs, 4 tbsp butter melted, 1 tsp paprika, 1 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp pepper, lemon wedges. Tartar sauce: 1 cup mayonnaise, 1/4 cup sweet pickle relish, 1 tbsp lemon juice

How to make it: 1. Heat oven to 400 F and grease a 9×13 pan. 2. Lay fillets in the pan, season with salt and pepper. 3. Toss crumbs with butter and paprika and press over the fish. 4. Bake 15 to 18 minutes until the fish flakes and reaches 145 F. 5. Cut into squares and serve with tartar sauce mixed from mayo, relish and lemon.

Southern Cafeteria Food Classic: Chicken Fried Steak

Every cafeteria line had a tray of chicken fried steak under the heat lamp, with a ladle of peppery white gravy waiting beside it. Tenderized cube steak gets a double dip in seasoned flour and buttermilk, then fries until craggy and golden. The gravy is made right in the same skillet, which is where all the flavor lives. Use plenty of black pepper, just like the cafeteria cooks did. It was the heart of a meat and three plate. For more ways to serve it, see our country-fried supper ideas. Gravy on top or on the side?

You will need: 4 cube steaks, 1 1/2 cups flour, 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp pepper, 1 tsp paprika, 1 cup buttermilk, 1 egg, oil for frying. Gravy: 3 tbsp pan drippings, 3 tbsp flour, 2 cups milk, salt, plenty of black pepper

How to make it: 1. Mix flour with seasonings; whisk buttermilk and egg. 2. Dredge steaks in flour, then buttermilk, then flour again. 3. Fry in 1/2 inch oil at 350 F, 3 to 4 minutes per side, until 160 F. 4. Pour off all but 3 tbsp drippings, whisk in flour, then milk, and simmer until thick. 5. Season gravy and spoon over steaks.

Fried Okra, a Southern Cafeteria Food Favorite

Fried okra was the side dish that sold out first, and the regulars knew to get there early. Sliced okra tossed in cornmeal fries into crisp little golden nuggets, with none of the sliminess people fear. The trick is a light coat of buttermilk and a cornmeal mix that clings well. Fry in small batches so the oil stays hot, and salt it the second it comes out. It is just as good next to fried catfish as it is next to a meat and three. Find more Southern sides in our Lowcountry holiday classics. Did you fight over the last spoonful?

You will need: 1 lb fresh okra sliced 1/2 inch thick, 1/2 cup buttermilk, 1 cup cornmeal, 1/4 cup flour, 1 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp pepper, oil for frying

How to make it: 1. Toss okra in buttermilk. 2. Mix cornmeal, flour, salt and pepper and toss okra to coat. 3. Heat 1 inch oil to 350 F. 4. Fry in small batches 3 to 4 minutes until golden. 5. Drain on paper towels and salt right away.

Coconut Cream Pie From the Dessert Case

Tall coconut cream pie with toasted coconut on top was the dessert people eyed first and saved for last. The filling is creamy and rich, made with coconut milk and shredded coconut, and the topping was meringue or whipped cream depending on the cafeteria. Chill it well so it slices cleanly. Toast the coconut in a dry skillet for extra flavor and crunch. Southern cafeteria food desserts like this were worth the wait in line. If you love old-fashioned pies, try our retro impossible pies next. Meringue or whipped cream?

You will need: 1 baked 9 inch pie crust, 1 can (13.5 oz) coconut milk, 1 cup milk, 2/3 cup sugar, 1/4 cup cornstarch, 4 egg yolks, 2 tbsp butter, 1 tsp vanilla, 1 cup shredded coconut, 2 cups whipped cream, toasted coconut

How to make it: 1. Whisk coconut milk, milk, sugar, cornstarch and yolks in a pot. 2. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until thick and bubbling. 3. Stir in butter, vanilla and coconut. 4. Pour into crust, press plastic wrap on top and chill 4 hours. 5. Top with whipped cream and toasted coconut.

Butter Beans Simmered With Bacon

Butter beans were on every Southern cafeteria line, simmered with a little bacon and butter until creamy and tender. Fresh or frozen baby lima beans both work, and the cooking liquid thickens into a silky sauce. Add a pinch of sugar and plenty of black pepper. They were the side you could count on, every single day, and kids who hated lima beans at home somehow loved these. If you like a slow pot of beans, our old-fashioned navy beans and ham is the next one to try. Do you call them butter beans or lima beans?

You will need: 1 lb frozen baby lima beans, 3 slices bacon chopped, 1 small onion diced, 3 cups water or chicken broth, 2 tbsp butter, 1 tsp sugar, salt, pepper

How to make it: 1. Cook bacon until crisp and add onion until soft. 2. Add beans and water. 3. Simmer 30 to 40 minutes until creamy. 4. Stir in butter and sugar. 5. Season with salt and pepper.

Squash Casserole From the Southern Cafeteria Food Line

Squash casserole was the vegetable even picky kids ate, because it is really an excuse for cheese and buttery crackers. Yellow squash and onion are cooked down, mixed with eggs, sour cream and cheddar, then baked under a golden cracker topping. It is a Southern potluck classic and a cafeteria favorite for good reason. Drain the cooked squash very well so it sets nicely instead of turning watery. For more bubbling bakes, see our cheesy weeknight casseroles. Will it win over your family?

You will need: 2 lb yellow squash sliced, 1 onion diced, 2 eggs, 1/2 cup sour cream, 1 1/2 cups shredded cheddar, 1 cup crushed butter crackers, 3 tbsp butter melted, salt, pepper

How to make it: 1. Simmer squash and onion until tender and drain well. 2. Mash lightly and mix with eggs, sour cream, cheese, salt and pepper. 3. Pour into a greased baking dish. 4. Toss crackers with butter and sprinkle over. 5. Bake at 350 F for 30 minutes until golden.

Baked Chicken and Cornbread Dressing

Thursday was baked chicken day at many Southern cafeterias, served on a pillow of cornbread dressing with giblet gravy and a spoon of cranberry sauce. It felt like Thanksgiving every week, and families planned their lunch around it. The dressing is crumbled cornbread, celery, onion and sage, moistened with broth until it is soft but not soggy. Bake it in its own dish until it reaches 165 F. It belongs on the holiday table too, right beside the other Southern Thanksgiving dishes. Did your family have a favorite day?

You will need: 8 bone-in chicken thighs, 1 tsp paprika, salt, pepper, 6 cups crumbled cornbread, 2 cups white bread cubes, 1 onion diced, 2 celery ribs diced, 4 tbsp butter, 1 tbsp sage, 2 eggs, 3 cups chicken broth

How to make it: 1. Season chicken and bake at 400 F for 45 minutes until 165 F. 2. Soften onion and celery in butter with sage. 3. Toss with cornbread and bread, then stir in eggs and broth. 4. Bake dressing in a greased dish at 350 F for 45 minutes. 5. Serve chicken over dressing with gravy.

Liver and Onions

Some people walked right past it, but there was always a loyal crowd that ordered liver and onions. Thin slices of beef liver are dredged in flour and pan-fried quickly, then smothered in sweet, slowly cooked onions and a little gravy. Soaking the liver in milk for an hour mellows the flavor. Cook it quickly so it stays tender, and make sure it reaches 160 F. Southern cafeteria food fans either love this one or skip it. It sits right beside the other penny-stretching grandma suppers we still cook today. Which side are you on?

You will need: 1 lb beef liver sliced thin, 1 cup milk, 1 cup flour, salt, pepper, 2 large onions sliced, 4 tbsp butter, 1 cup beef broth

How to make it: 1. Soak liver in milk for 1 hour, then pat dry. 2. Cook onions slowly in 2 tbsp butter for 20 minutes until golden; set aside. 3. Dredge liver in seasoned flour. 4. Fry in remaining butter 2 to 3 minutes per side until 160 F. 5. Return onions with broth and simmer 2 minutes.

Carrot Raisin Salad

Carrot raisin salad was the bright little side in a small bowl that made you feel like you were eating healthy. Shredded carrots, plump raisins and a sweet, creamy dressing make it crunchy and refreshing. Some versions add crushed pineapple for extra sweetness. Make it a few hours ahead so the flavors come together. Southern cafeteria food balanced all those rich plates with cool salads like this. It also fits right in on a retro holiday relish tray. Pineapple or no pineapple?

You will need: 4 cups shredded carrots, 3/4 cup raisins, 1/2 cup crushed pineapple drained, 1/2 cup mayonnaise, 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp lemon juice, pinch salt

How to make it: 1. Soak raisins in warm water 10 minutes and drain. 2. Mix mayonnaise, sugar, lemon juice and salt. 3. Toss carrots, raisins and pineapple with dressing. 4. Chill at least 2 hours. 5. Stir again before serving.

Chess Pie: Southern Cafeteria Food Dessert

Chess pie is the simplest Southern pie: butter, sugar, eggs and a little cornmeal, baked into a golden, custardy slice with a thin, sugary top crust. Cafeteria fans remember it on a small plate at the end of the line, right next to the coconut cream. One old story says the name came from a cook saying it was just pie, which sounds like chess pie in a soft Southern accent. A splash of vinegar balances the sweetness. It still sells out at every church bake sale. Have you tried it?

You will need: 1 unbaked 9 inch pie crust, 1/2 cup butter melted, 1 1/2 cups sugar, 1 tbsp cornmeal, 1 tbsp flour, 4 eggs, 1/4 cup milk, 1 tbsp white vinegar, 1 tsp vanilla, pinch salt

How to make it: 1. Heat oven to 350 F. 2. Mix butter, sugar, cornmeal, flour and salt. 3. Beat in eggs, milk, vinegar and vanilla. 4. Pour into the crust. 5. Bake 45 to 50 minutes until set with a slight wobble, and cool fully.

Egg Custard Pie

Egg custard pie is as old-fashioned as it gets, with a silky, nutmeg-scented filling inside a flaky crust. It was the pie grandparents ordered, often with a cup of coffee. Bake it gently so the custard stays smooth and creamy. Grate fresh nutmeg on top just before baking for the best aroma. It is the kind of dessert that makes people quiet for a minute while they eat. Southern cafeteria food desserts were simple but perfect. Bake it small for a holiday mini pie bar. Did your grandpa order this too?

You will need: 1 unbaked 9 inch deep-dish pie crust, 4 eggs, 3/4 cup sugar, 2 1/2 cups milk, 1 tsp vanilla, 1/4 tsp salt, freshly grated nutmeg

How to make it: 1. Heat oven to 425 F. 2. Whisk eggs, sugar, milk, vanilla and salt. 3. Pour into the crust and grate nutmeg over the top. 4. Bake 15 minutes, then lower to 350 F for 30 to 35 minutes until just set. 5. Cool and chill before slicing.

Lemon Icebox Pie

On hot afternoons, a cold slice of lemon icebox pie was the perfect way to end a cafeteria lunch. Sweetened condensed milk, lemon juice and egg yolks come together in a creamy filling inside a graham cracker crust. Bake it briefly to set the eggs, which is the safer way. Chill it at least 4 hours, then top with whipped cream and a little lemon zest. If you love tart and sweet, our bright lemon desserts are full of ideas. Would you have a second slice?

You will need: 1 graham cracker crust, 1 can (14 oz) sweetened condensed milk, 4 egg yolks, 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, 1 tbsp lemon zest, whipped cream

How to make it: 1. Heat oven to 350 F. 2. Whisk condensed milk and yolks. 3. Stir in lemon juice and zest. 4. Pour into the crust and bake 15 minutes until set. 5. Cool and chill 4 hours, then top with whipped cream.

Banana Pudding to Finish Your Southern Cafeteria Food Tray

Banana pudding was the grand finale on many cafeteria trays, served in a small bowl with layers of vanilla wafers, ripe bananas and creamy custard. The best versions had a toasted meringue on top. Make it a few hours ahead so the wafers soften. Use ripe but firm bananas so the layers stay neat. It is the dessert that ties together everything about Sunday lunch at the cafeteria, and it still shows up among the most requested family recipes. Meringue or whipped cream on top?

You will need: 1 cup sugar, 1/3 cup flour, pinch salt, 3 cups milk, 4 egg yolks, 2 tbsp butter, 1 tsp vanilla, 4 ripe bananas sliced, 1 box vanilla wafers. Meringue: 4 egg whites, 1/2 cup sugar

How to make it: 1. Cook sugar, flour, salt, milk and yolks over medium heat until thick. 2. Stir in butter and vanilla. 3. Layer wafers, bananas and custard in a dish. 4. Beat egg whites with sugar to stiff peaks and spread over the top. 5. Bake at 375 F for 10 minutes until golden, then chill.